How to start
The best way to start this process is with a clean slate. Start with fresh, impressionable hair follicles. We're not saying go bald, but you’ll want to go to your nearest barber and request a really low, level-1 trim.
brushing
The most important, and continuously practiced, part of getting waves is brushing. Start with a softer brush to use during your low cut moments, and transition to a harder brush once it gets longer. Here's a good medium brush if you're just getting into the wave game.
Moisturize
This is one lots of guys get wrong. A little background first: Brushing can be hard on your follicles. So as you're training your hair to lay down, you want to make sure that you are feeding and nourishing your scalp. Most old school wavers will swear by pomades—but most pomades feature a common ingredient known as petroleum, amongst other chemicals. While the petroleum does help keep your hair in place, it has been known to clog pores and stunt growth. So you want to find a more natural moisturizer that still has hold. Try products like WaveBuilder Natural Wave Pomade, and SheaMoisture ThreeButters StylingPomade.
Last thing: Make sure you don’t over-grease your hair by loading it up with too much moisturizer. Only apply moisturizer once or twice a week, maximum 3 times, depending on how dry your hair gets.
Durag
Another essential tool in the waving process is the the durag. A durag helps keep your hair in position overnight. And it locks in the moisture to hydrate your scalp. The world is a dangerous place. Don't toss all your progress in the trash by not protecting your waves in unforgiving environments—especially during sleep. Truly dedicated guys always wear their durags. Only on very special occasions would you actually see their obsessively curated waves.
satin durag helps retain moisture, and causes less breakage. Plus, if you’re going to encapsulate your head in any fabric for 6-8 hours every day, it might as well be satin. Also velvet durags, which are much harder to find, are having a style moment right now.
Elite Wave Technique: Wolfing
Wolfing is the excruciating act of abstaining from a haircut for extended periods of time. Sounds awful, I know. Your barber and anybody that’s ever been appreciative of your line-up will frown on you, and possibly disown you. Assure them that the ends justify the means. During the wolfing period it is imperative that you go even harder with your brushing and moisturizing regimen. You want to switch to a hard brush to make sure that your brushing penetrates the top layer of hair and gets down into the new growth. This period is crucial because it helps ensure that your waves connect and form some sort of recognizable pattern rather than the disarrayed collection of ripples. The longer you wolf the better. Most wolfing periods last somewhere between 4 to 6 weeks, but have been known to go up to 12. If you’re like me and can’t stomach the idea looking like an actual wolf, visit the shop to get a line up or a taper. But no real haircuts.